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dirty hands At rest
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Posts: 693 Location: Ipswich QLD
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Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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from what I see this power unit will give you a great road speed
did I miss the final diff you choice and the rims and tyres ?
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:19 am Post subject: |
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Im going to use a ke55 diff, i will also change the front to corrolla so both will be 114.3 stud paterns, my wife is keen on a set of billet wheels im happing with any wheel that has a big dish or a watanabe style wheel
cheers Paul
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twincam89 Got the keys
Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 41
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Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Lookin good redfourdoor. Have you checked to see that the alternator will bolt up? Most likely you will need to remount it, i had to move mine up about 3 inches. Also do you have a remote thermostat housing out of an mr2 yet? What ECU are you using?
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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thanks twincam89
my engine mounts further back on the block so there is about an 2inches clearance
In oz there is a popular model corrolla called an ae82 ive got a thermostat housing off one of these models
Im running an EMS computer its an older version but will do the job
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twincam89 Got the keys
Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 41
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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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oh okay cool, its most likely the same thermostat that i have used on mine. Its a very nice thermostat as it also comes with an air bleed off valve necessary for the 4age. Any bubbles in the coolant will lead to a very bouncy and erratic idle. Im actually going to try and fire her up for the first time tomorrow so ill let you know how it goes. What kind of clearance issues are you up against. It would definetely not be a bad idea to run some sort of stabilizer bar. I did on mine from the front the crossmember to the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing. Actually, the stabilizer bar i used was a spare morris minor "radius arm" that i modified. Its a necessary modification, especially if you decided to use a mechanical clutch (highly recommended). What are you going to use for a radiator? I used a toyota corolla radiator which in my opinion is the best radiator for this application due to its weight (plastic tanks) and how thin it is . 10 inch electric fan is the only thing that will fit, i used a haynes fan and it worked out really nice. What wiring harness are you going to be using? I highly recommend that you try and find one specifically made for your engine with all the right circuits, relays, and connectors. Obviously you can modify or even make a harness later on but haveing an uncut harness makes everything easy. The rear sensor block will have to be blocked off and the sensors moved to a different location. I will try to find you a diagram online of the coolant hose layout that you most likely need to use for the 4age application and remote thermostat. The two sensors will need to be moved to a hard line. One thing to remember though is that one of the sensors is a ecu temperature which plays a major role in controlling idle speed. Idealy it should be place where the water is the hottest in the system (i.e. after the water has exited the engine). I put the sensors in after rad cooling so i might get a slightly higher idle than normal.
You will need to use an external efi fuel pump capable of pumping around 50 psi as the fuel rail and ecu will be looking for a constant supply of fuel pressure to stay running. The most ideal fuel pump in my opinion is that out of a efi ford ranger. You will need a new feed line as the stock feed line is insufficient diameter and will lead to fuel starvation. 5/16 feed and 1/4 return are sufficient for 4age fuel consumption. You can use the stock feed line for the new return line. Also the fuel filter out of an mr2 works really well as it comes with nice banjo fittings that run straight up to the fuel rail.
If your going to be changing the stud pattern to japanese, i wouold reccomend the rear end to mgb and the front brakes to mgb disc brakes as the stud patters are the same as most japanese wheels. Not to mention the incredible stopping power. Thats the setup i have in mine and at any speed i can lock all four wheels up. The rear wheels will even lock up with the E-brake.
I know a lot of this information is ahead of the stage you are at right now but its always nice to plan ahead.
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twincam89 Got the keys
Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 41
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Bo grainger Full Licence
Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 300 Location: gold coast australia
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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i bought a ke55 corolla today which has the following
5k engine worked with twin 40mm webers
celica 5 speed
shortend hiace diff
slotted ke70 brakes up front
holley red fuel pump (lift pump)
lots and lots of rust
im going to use as much of this car as possible, if this car had come up earlier i may have even used the engine
cheers Paul
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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twincam89 Got the keys
Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 41
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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Any updates?
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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hey twincam89
so far ive finished all the welding in the engine bay, mounted the radiator and im about to remove all the wiring as my mate is going to rewire from scratch. Ive mounted a tarago clutch master to work off the morrie clutch pedal.
The best thing ive done though is played with mounting a barina brake pedal box as it uses a booster and dual circuit master which sits perfectly in the engine bay the pedal has to be reshaped by ive spoken to an engineer and i can get one laser cut off the sample pattern i make up. if this works i will consider getting more made up as i think this would be a good upgrade in most applications
also putting in a laser column this weekend
hope to post up some pics of the brakes soon
cheers Paul
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twincam89 Got the keys
Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 41
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Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Any updates on this build?
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:53 am Post subject: |
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Lookin good. Thats a big booster, whats it off?
Trev
Aus
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2008 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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The brake booster was taken from a SB Barina (the bubble shape) it was all one unit including the pedal box
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Oracle I've got trainer wheels
Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Posts: 17
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advise Oracle,
The firewall does flex a fair bit ive started making a brace from the pedal box to the under side of the dash, but would still prefer some more strengthening,
Im going to mount three remote fluid reservoirs on the level part of the firewall up high where the battery box used to be, Will this help or is it the angle of the master cylinder itself
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 8:13 am Post subject: |
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Redfourdoor wrote: | Thanks for the advise Oracle,
The firewall does flex a fair bit ive started making a brace from the pedal box to the under side of the dash, but would still prefer some more strengthening,
Im going to mount three remote fluid reservoirs on the level part of the firewall up high where the battery box used to be, Will this help or is it the angle of the master cylinder itself |
As Oracle (who) said it will flex when you jump on the brakes & eventually crack.
I'm not sure if the cylinder angle matters, but i would try & set it at the same angle as it was in the donner car, i know this will stuff up you peddles.
If say your using datto peddles, then there is a brace from the firewall to under the dash face, this stiffens up everything.
Trev
Aus
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Scouse moderator
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Posts: 5266 Location: Wollondilly, NSW
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Redfourdoor wrote: | Im going to mount three remote fluid reservoirs on the level part of the firewall up high where the battery box used to be, Will this help or is it the angle of the master cylinder itself | The remote reservoir will solve that issue but you shouldn't need 3 of them.
You should be able to find one suitable for the 2 brake circuits & clutch.
I'm using one with 2 outlets - one for the clutch, the other for the brakes.
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Craig I can steer now
Joined: 21 Sep 2003 Posts: 143 Location: Devonport, Tasmania
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Redfourdoor learning to change gears
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Location: Penrith, sydney
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twincam89 Got the keys
Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 41
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:27 am Post subject: |
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Volkswagen Beetle remote reservoir will also work as well....also will you be using the T-VIS butterfly plate? If this is a big port motor you will not be happy without them unless you change the cams to something hotter. You'll need a vacuum canister to run the T-VIS without the EGR installed.
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