redfourdoor's 4age install update June 09 PICS

[dirty hands]

from what I see this power unit will give you a great road speed

did I miss the final diff you choice and the rims and tyres ?

[Redfourdoor]

Im going to use a ke55 diff, i will also change the front to corrolla so both will be 114.3 stud paterns, my wife is keen on a set of billet wheels im happing with any wheel that has a big dish or a watanabe style wheel

cheers Paul

[twincam89]

Lookin good redfourdoor. Have you checked to see that the alternator will bolt up? Most likely you will need to remount it, i had to move mine up about 3 inches. Also do you have a remote thermostat housing out of an mr2 yet? What ECU are you using?

[Redfourdoor]

thanks twincam89

my engine mounts further back on the block so there is about an 2inches clearance

In oz there is a popular model corrolla called an ae82 ive got a thermostat housing off one of these models

Im running an EMS computer its an older version but will do the job

[twincam89]

oh okay cool, its most likely the same thermostat that i have used on mine. Its a very nice thermostat as it also comes with an air bleed off valve necessary for the 4age. Any bubbles in the coolant will lead to a very bouncy and erratic idle. Im actually going to try and fire her up for the first time tomorrow so ill let you know how it goes. What kind of clearance issues are you up against. It would definetely not be a bad idea to run some sort of stabilizer bar. I did on mine from the front the crossmember to the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing. Actually, the stabilizer bar i used was a spare morris minor "radius arm" that i modified. Its a necessary modification, especially if you decided to use a mechanical clutch (highly recommended). What are you going to use for a radiator? I used a toyota corolla radiator which in my opinion is the best radiator for this application due to its weight (plastic tanks) and how thin it is . 10 inch electric fan is the only thing that will fit, i used a haynes fan and it worked out really nice. What wiring harness are you going to be using? I highly recommend that you try and find one specifically made for your engine with all the right circuits, relays, and connectors. Obviously you can modify or even make a harness later on but haveing an uncut harness makes everything easy. The rear sensor block will have to be blocked off and the sensors moved to a different location. I will try to find you a diagram online of the coolant hose layout that you most likely need to use for the 4age application and remote thermostat. The two sensors will need to be moved to a hard line. One thing to remember though is that one of the sensors is a ecu temperature which plays a major role in controlling idle speed. Idealy it should be place where the water is the hottest in the system (i.e. after the water has exited the engine). I put the sensors in after rad cooling so i might get a slightly higher idle than normal.

You will need to use an external efi fuel pump capable of pumping around 50 psi as the fuel rail and ecu will be looking for a constant supply of fuel pressure to stay running. The most ideal fuel pump in my opinion is that out of a efi ford ranger. You will need a new feed line as the stock feed line is insufficient diameter and will lead to fuel starvation. 5/16 feed and 1/4 return are sufficient for 4age fuel consumption. You can use the stock feed line for the new return line. Also the fuel filter out of an mr2 works really well as it comes with nice banjo fittings that run straight up to the fuel rail.

If your going to be changing the stud pattern to japanese, i wouold reccomend the rear end to mgb and the front brakes to mgb disc brakes as the stud patters are the same as most japanese wheels. Not to mention the incredible stopping power. Thats the setup i have in mine and at any speed i can lock all four wheels up. The rear wheels will even lock up with the E-brake.

I know a lot of this information is ahead of the stage you are at right now but its always nice to plan ahead.

[twincam89]

I got my morris running today! ..now i know my advice isn't just hot air haha

[Bo grainger]

Well done its a load of your shoulders when you fire up with a big yeha how good am i feeling well done
regards Bo

[Redfourdoor]

congrats twincam89

also thanks for some of the advice hopefully im not to far behind.
you have given me inspiration to get mine running

cheers Paul

[Redfourdoor]

just a little bit of progress

i have started installing the radiator, thermo fan and thermostat housing

The radiator is from a late model ford festiva it fits snug where the old one used to go. I had made up a cardboard template to fit in this space and also marked out the ideal top and bottom hose locations, again i went next door to work and looked through all there radiators. The bottom hose is perfect and points away on a good angle. the top is on the other side so i will have to mod a couple of hoses for this

engine to radiator clearance

The fan is from a VR commodore and was a push through fan so its also well suited being on the out side of the radiator and covers around 70% of the radiator core

I ended up using a ae92 thermostat housing as it wasnt much different and the one ive got was like new still , I have cut the outlet off the back of the water pump down as it usually goes right to the other side of the motor and welded around the end so it seals better when clamping

well thats about it , I hope to have another update soon
cheers Paul

[Redfourdoor]

i bought a ke55 corolla today which has the following

5k engine worked with twin 40mm webers
celica 5 speed
shortend hiace diff
slotted ke70 brakes up front
holley red fuel pump (lift pump)

lots and lots of rust

im going to use as much of this car as possible, if this car had come up earlier i may have even used the engine

cheers Paul

[Redfourdoor]

Well its about time for an update

I finished the gearbox bellhousing last week here is some pics so you can get an idea of how much had to be removed



Im very happy with the job on the welding



I have also started welding up the engine bay in the spots i had cut below the battery and below the radiator ,I hope to post up some pics of that pretty soon

cheers Paul

[twincam89]

Any updates?

[Redfourdoor]

hey twincam89

so far ive finished all the welding in the engine bay, mounted the radiator and im about to remove all the wiring as my mate is going to rewire from scratch. Ive mounted a tarago clutch master to work off the morrie clutch pedal.

The best thing ive done though is played with mounting a barina brake pedal box as it uses a booster and dual circuit master which sits perfectly in the engine bay the pedal has to be reshaped by ive spoken to an engineer and i can get one laser cut off the sample pattern i make up. if this works i will consider getting more made up as i think this would be a good upgrade in most applications

also putting in a laser column this weekend

hope to post up some pics of the brakes soon

cheers Paul

[twincam89]

Any updates on this build?

[Triumph Man]

Mate she's lookin great, we will have to make up a 4ag install sticky when your done. keep tabs on what all the parts are off & take lots of measurements
Trev
Aus

[Redfourdoor]

Time for a bit of an update

Pedal box install


Booster on the outside with recess for engine


Steering column in

Clutch master

New diff

Custom Inlet Manifold


Cheers Paul

[Triumph Man]

Lookin good. Thats a big booster, whats it off?
Trev
Aus

[Redfourdoor]

The brake booster was taken from a SB Barina (the bubble shape) it was all one unit including the pedal box

[Oracle]

You may find you have to throw some reinforcing on the firewall. That is a lot of leverage over a very small area and you may find you have excessive flex in the panel. Also as you have left the m/cyl on the same angle as the firewall you may find the engineer is not to happy about the volume of fluid capacity lost. (also check the clearance between the reservoir and the bonnet cross brace.)
I feel it is better to make a box and mount the booster vertical.
Don't take this as criticism it's just my thoughts after falling for the same mistakes a long time ago

[Redfourdoor]

Thanks for the advise Oracle,

The firewall does flex a fair bit ive started making a brace from the pedal box to the under side of the dash, but would still prefer some more strengthening,

Im going to mount three remote fluid reservoirs on the level part of the firewall up high where the battery box used to be, Will this help or is it the angle of the master cylinder itself

[Triumph Man]

[Scouse]

[Craig]

I bought one of these for my project.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fiat-124-Spider-128-Brake-Fluid-Reservoir-Tank-Bottle_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ42605QQihZ020QQitemZ300261211015QQtcZphoto



Craig

[Redfourdoor]

Thanks for the help guys

Craig that reservoir looks perfect for the job

[twincam89]

Volkswagen Beetle remote reservoir will also work as well....also will you be using the T-VIS butterfly plate? If this is a big port motor you will not be happy without them unless you change the cams to something hotter. You'll need a vacuum canister to run the T-VIS without the EGR installed.