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philthomas
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Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 295
Location: Murwillumbah NSW

PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:33 pm    Post subject: electronic ignition module Reply with quote

Anybody any knowledge or experience with an electronic ignition module fitted to a Morry distributor? See them advertised every now and then and have heard both positive and negative feedback. Like the idea of not needing to check, adjust or replace the points or condenser again but wonder if they are truly 'trouble free"?


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NZJLY
Free Wheeling


Joined: 14 Apr 2005
Posts: 103
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't done that, but I have fitted a Nissan electronic distributer. Was pretty easy, and cost NZ $30 so cheap as well Yellow Convertible Works a treat, and my moggie has never run as smoothly.


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philthomas
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Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 295
Location: Murwillumbah NSW

PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More details on the NZ $30 conversion please!
Also have a Datto powered Moggie and haven't seen an electronic unit for them advertised under Aus $150!


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done the same (probably) Nissan distributor conversion. It's moderately popular with the Mini crowd. You use the electronic distributor from a N12 Pulsar/Astra, cutting off the clamp plate on the dizzy, swapping the drive dog for the Morry one and modding the advance plate to limit the advance. No machining of the body is required - It's already the right length and diameter.

It's a simple enough conversion you can do at home. You do need a timing light to set the timing, though.

I'm very happy with mine. I did have a couple of "user error" problems early on, but I've had over a year of trouble free use.

Check out this thread from the Ausmini forum; it shows how it's developed:

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1498

The main issue (as I understand it) with these conversions is that they work a little too well on start up and can cause backlash (from firing on the first cranking stroke) and subsequent broken starter pinions. The easy way to overcome this on a Morry is to operate the starter first, and then flick on the ignition whe the engine is spinning.


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Boeing Bob
Got the hang of this ...


Joined: 08 Jul 2007
Posts: 284
Location: SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yellow Van
My A series 1098 has had Magnetron since I put the car on the road 3 years ago and it works beautifully. Three things to remember- 1) There are two different kits, one for the 24D4 distributor and one for the 45D4 dissy. There is only a slight difference but enough to warrant a modification if you get the wrong kit. 2) The Magnetron only works NEGATIVE to earth so if you are running positive to earth on your electrical system, you will have to reverse it. I don't know if the Optronic system will operate with either polarity. 3) I found in my car that with the electronic ignition it gave the engine much better all round performance with the spark advanced about 2 degrees on book figures. This was proved on a dynometer.

Boeing Bob.


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redback
valued contributor


Joined: 06 Jun 2004
Posts: 389
Location: Hervey Bay

PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yellow Van we found the electronic ignition from the 1981 honda civic was great and the car performed so much different and economical. regards Heather


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Tadhg
Got the hang of this ...


Joined: 26 Jun 2006
Posts: 250
Location: Toowoomba

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've put one of the cheap kits in my Mini. Very Happy Well, I've put two in there... Embarassed The first one was a Blue Module bought from eBay from an MG eBay shop, they treated me brilliantly, and gave a good price. Very Happy Unfortunately, when my car was converted from -ve earth to +ve earth, the coil was left as +ve earth, which, whilst it works fine with points, fries these electronic modules. Eye Rolls So it's worth checking. I ended up buying a replacement Red Module from Simon BBC in the UK. Was cheap - and the A$ is still nice and high against the GB£.

Once I finally figured the problem with the coil, it was easy to install. My Mini is the 2nd car and rarely gets used, but it was easy to install (very, very easy) and, once it was re-tuned (it needed a bit more retardation), it ran beautifully. Very Happy I should mention, too, I've got a 43D4 - same as a 45D4, but without vacuum advance.

And the Red module is an updated design - it has better heat dissipation through the baseplate (they include a little heatsink paste, too), and is a bigger module. The one weakness with running the Blue modules is that, if you sit around with the ignition on and the engine not running, they reasonably quickly (within a couple of minutes) run into and above their optimum heat range and burn out. This is less of a problem with the Red modules. Very Happy


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philthomas
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Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 295
Location: Murwillumbah NSW

PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guess it is obvious whether the coil is +ve or -ve (haven't looked yet!)?
Ordered a red module from SimonBBC last week and was pleased with the price, module included new rotor and also bought a new cap - $83 delivered.
Also ordered a kit for my datson engine from America, $101 landed which I thought was OK as the Datson people here seem to want $150+.
Did discover during my research that my Morris 948 engine has a 27D distributer which appears to be from a later mini? Have a few original 23D distributers here so will be fitting the module to the best looking one of those.
Also read the suggestion that spark plug might need to be increased after converting to an electronic module?


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Tadhg
Got the hang of this ...


Joined: 26 Jun 2006
Posts: 250
Location: Toowoomba

PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't find it obvious whether the coil was +ve or -ve earth - but I will say that the description with the kit was correct. Though, it must be said, a diagram would've been nice - you need to spend for the Pertronix kit (which is, apparently, very similar) to get the diagram with the kit. Part of my problem was that I assumed what was already in the car was correct. Embarassed
Basically, the wires from the ignition should go to the +ve side of the coil, and the wire to the dizzy should go to the -ve side of the coil. It's all explained on the second page here. So... Go to that page, and you don't have to buy the Pertronix kit. Very Happy

I did recheck the gaps, but, given I needed a tune before the kit, I put it in and got it tuned by an experienced mechanic (it needed it - new needles in the twin SU's, plugs changed from BPES6 to BPES5 (I was told that wasn't dependant on the plugs, just on the fuel), timing changed). But, given these cheaper kits use the existing coil (which is designed for points), there's not a great capacity to increase the spark gap. We're not gaining higher spark voltages (which enables a bigger gap), we're just getting better spark dwell/timing and the end of points as a consumable and water/points issues.


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