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Time for a New Paintjob (Pics!) Registered!!! 23/2/2008
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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost...

...a bit more surface sanding and I'll be there.

Patched that hole

And the little ones on the dash

Etch primed the engine bay (and the inner guards, front & rear)

Fitted new brake shoes

and had my photo taken Eye Rolls


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Triumph Man
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Joined: 13 Sep 2003
Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lookin good! Is there a reason you left the brakes pipes in? (masked them up)
Nice hat Very Happy Very Happy
Keep the photo's comin!
Trev
Aus


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trev aus wrote:
lookin good! Is there a reason you left the brakes pipes in? (masked them up)
Nice hat Very Happy Very Happy
Keep the photo's comin!
Trev
Aus


I did all the brake wheel and master cylinders about a year ago. I couldn't bring myself to strip and start again. The lines are in good condition. The only bit of the brakes I didn't do was fit new shoes.

I'll probably have to bleed them again before I go for roadworthy, but that's a comparatively easy job.


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oliver-morrisminor
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Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 998
Location: Brisbane, Redlands.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep it up Shawn looking good.

See you next Sunday,
with or without your Morrie,
there's always next year!


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Triumph Man
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Joined: 13 Sep 2003
Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn wrote:
Trev aus wrote:
lookin good! Is there a reason you left the brakes pipes in? (masked them up)
Nice hat Very Happy Very Happy
Keep the photo's comin!
Trev
Aus


I did all the brake wheel and master cylinders about a year ago. I couldn't bring myself to strip and start again. The lines are in good condition. The only bit of the brakes I didn't do was fit new shoes.

I'll probably have to bleed them again before I go for roadworthy, but that's a comparatively easy job.


Fair enough Shawn
but just a tip, i always leave the brakes to the very end of the build, they are always the first thing to stuff up when a car sits, (Even a few months)Even if you dont fill the system with fluid, some cylinders are put together with a coating of fluid, this attracts mosture, if they were put together with rubber grease they maybe ok.
I know sometimes it's good to have brakes so you can move the car in & out of the shed etc but the handbrake can be left for that.
She's lookin good.
Trev
Aus


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



We have primer.


And I'm buggered.


he might not be ready for tomorrow 10am... Eye Rolls


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Triumph Man
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Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You sure you haven't done this before? lookin great Very Happy plastic on the floor etc, when i do the colour Just give the floor a light spray with the hose, there is always sanding dust, dog hair etc you cant sweep up.
Trev
Aus


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Scouse
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Posts: 5266
Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope there was no washing on the line during all this Shawn Very Happy .

Just assemble it as it & go for the "Westie" look - it was all the rage in my teenage years Embarassed .


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Triumph Man
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Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott wrote:
I hope there was no washing on the line during all this Shawn Very Happy .

Just assemble it as it & go for the "Westie" look - it was all the rage in my teenage years Embarassed .


dont forget the black guide coat (Mt Druit matalic)
Trev
Aus


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott wrote:
I hope there was no washing on the line during all this Shawn Very Happy .

Just assemble it as it & go for the "Westie" look - it was all the rage in my teenage years Embarassed .


Thanks for the kind words guys!

No washing (and I hope the neighbours didn't have theirs out either), but these last few weekends have meant I've had to do loads through the week to keep the weekend washing free!

It's soooo tempting to assemble it in primer; no imperfections to be seen! Trouble is, I've got $150.00 worth of Porcelain Green in the study ready to go. That and I couldn't go all this way without finishing the job!

It's funny how some patches in the paintwork are much harder to finish than others. Two small patches, both almost the same, one can be done in one light coat of filler, the other takes half a dozen. Frustrating.

I am amazed at the runs I'm finding in the original paint. You don't notice them 'til you start sanding every square inch. The inner bottoms of the doors in particular (just under the door card), and a couple on the dash itself.

Getting the hang of the spray gun has been a bit interesting. I'm using a Supercheap cheapie for the primer, and while the finish is adequate, the air and paint control knobs seem to have almost no relation to the mixture leaving the gun. The Chinese translated instructions weren't much help either!

I've got a better "Star" brand gun to use for the topcoat.

More as it happens...


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grant69
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Joined: 27 Jan 2004
Posts: 2796
Location: Cairns Nth Qld

PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top job Shawn, I always use an etch primer that can remain unpainted for a couple of months, this is because the thinners in paint can make the filler sink back, so you may have perfect panels when you prime them but after a week or two you can sometimes see repairs you thought were fine. So if I have done alot of repairs I always leave it for a couple of weeks before painting top coat , so I can fix any little spots that appear before top coating. I didn't leave my ute long enough (one week) and the side of the tray you can see where the filler has sunk back


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John Ballard
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Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2646
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn. I hope you have reinforced bonnet across lip.
Mine cracked in two places after final paint and assembly. Mad
Easy modification just fit 8mm rod accross lip in center and spot weld
Mine goes Right across bonnet, but about 300 each side of center will do.
Hope this helps.
Eye Rolls Yellow Sedan Blue Ute


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Ballard wrote:
Shawn. I hope you have reinforced bonnet across lip.
Mine cracked in two places after final paint and assembly. Mad
Easy modification just fit 8mm rod accross lip in center and spot weld
Mine goes Right across bonnet, but about 300 each side of center will do.
Hope this helps.
Eye Rolls Yellow Sedan Blue Ute


I've never heard of that fix before, but I can see where it'd be effective. I've noticed a fair bit of flex across the front lip. Roughly closing the bonnet wouldn't help either. I'll have to think about that one...


As for today's effort, it's a bit of a mixed bag.

Further priming and sanding, so not really much to show, except that the "from a certain angle, in a certain light" thing makes all the difference in the world. This front guard feels (to my hands at least) perfectly flat. I hadn't spray puttied the front guards, and the afternoon sun reminded me just how rough "bare metal" is.

Obviously, there's more work to be done here...


Secondly some useful tools. No one had mentioned the measuring cup and pouring spout in anything I'd read about painting, and I can't imagine doing a job like this without them. Simple, but sooo much cleaner and easier. They're both made of slippery, flexible plastic too, so you just let the paint dry on them and flex them to break it off. And to think that they were both impluse buys at the paintshop!

And that box of filthy rags isn't just a box of filthy rags. It's a "left over paint disposal device". I pour any dregs of left over paint and thinners into it and let it dry out. Previously, I might have poured it into a discreet spot in the garden...


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grant69
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Joined: 27 Jan 2004
Posts: 2796
Location: Cairns Nth Qld

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn, watch your rags as they can spontaneously combust, do not store in your house or shed overnight


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Triumph Man
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Joined: 13 Sep 2003
Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grant69 wrote:
Shawn, watch your rags as they can spontaneously combust, do not store in your house or shed overnight


I've herd of this to, i through my thinners & wax & grease remover rags in an old bucket with some water in it, just enough water to soak up into the rags, & i dont leave them in the shed overnight.
My old paint goes into an old tin & is left to dry out, then in the bin.

I once had a few old thinners rags lying on the floor, & started the grinder up for some tiny job, i noticed the sparks going strait onto the rags, lucky nothing went up.
I have a fire extinguisher & fire blanket in my shed.
Trev
Aus


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly, some spray putty on that guard. It's lots better now. I had to do likewise with the other front guard and the boot lid.


Secondly, a little bit of colour. First attempt. This will need to be rubbed back quite a bit. I had the mix way too thick. Taken with the flash, so it's looking a bit washed out.

Had a bit of a practise in here too.


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is green...







...very tired.


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dirty hands
At rest


Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Posts: 693
Location: Ipswich QLD

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keep going thats a fantastic looking morry now Very Happy


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Scouse
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Posts: 5266
Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work Shawn. How did it all go ? Any problems ?
Now comes the part of the restoration where you get to see some progress while it all goes back together Very Happy .


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, It all went pretty well.

It took a bit of fiddling to get the gun settings right, and I found that a much thinner mixture than recommended by the paint shop (1:5 paint to thinners) gave best results. Better shine off the gun and much less orange peel.

The compressor kept up well, only requiring short catch up times with no noticeable effect on pressure and finish.

What you see there is three decent coats, using about 3 litres of paint. I'll need to rub back a few runs and will probably do a final light coat before polishing. The practise I did on the bonnet and boot showed that the paint is very forgiving; runs sanded back easily, leaving no evidence. I didn't think it'd be enough, but 4 litres IS enough to do a whole car inside and out.

Most of my panel repairs are effectively invisble, but I've found three small dents and one scratch which I didn't know existed. They're tiny, but if they don't sand out with the wet & dry, they'll become features Very Happy

All in all, I'm pretty happy with the results so far.


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An "odds & ends" day today

Converted a little bit of rust I found. This was pretty light, and I was in two minds as to bother with it or not. In the end, I rubbed back the inner sill joins and converted them. It's a bit "cart-before-the-horse" but it's done now.


I've been meaning to sort out the brackets for my fog lights forever. Because of where I've decided to mount the brackets, the radiator needs to be out to test fit them, so I finally fabricated and painted these. This co-incided with a test fitting of the front panel. The two piece brackets clear the grille slats when it's all tightened up and should be vibration free. (These pics were taken when it was finger tight) The lamps sit about 25mm clear of the grille.




I had done an earlier repair on the steering wheel with araldite. It was just ok, so I've cleaned it out and tried body filler this time. We'll see how this goes. The structure of the wheel is fine, it's just cracks in the rim.


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oliver-morrisminor
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Joined: 14 Nov 2005
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Location: Brisbane, Redlands.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lights look good, but you cannot make a LOW LIGHT that way!


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Triumph Man
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Joined: 13 Sep 2003
Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you get much fog in QLD Very Happy
sorry being a smart arse
Trev
Aus


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 385
Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trev aus wrote:
Do you get much fog in QLD Very Happy
sorry being a smart arse
Trev
Aus


Pure bling! I may even leave them unwired for the moment!


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Triumph Man
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Posts: 1890

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn wrote:
Trev aus wrote:
Do you get much fog in QLD Very Happy
sorry being a smart arse
Trev
Aus


Pure bling! I may even leave them unwired for the moment!


Talk about stupid rules here in NSW if you put spotties on just for looks they wont pass it for rego if they dont work Mad
Trev
Aus


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