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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:07 pm    Post subject: 51 MMmmm Reply with quote

Hi all,

We have just been given a 51 MM 2Dr and are planning a restoration with some modernisation. We being myself and our daughter Tess who is seven. I got the car for free for her as her first car so I have a few years to do it.



The car is in fairly good nick, can only find a bit of rust in the floors where water has been sitting, well see after blasting. The car is otherwise very straight even if it looks a bit shabby. It came with 2 full sets of sidevalve running gear which we will be using to get her back on the road.







I have had a couple of car but this is my first Morrie. Of note I have had a LJ 2Dr 4cyl, HZ kingwood, and my girl Gwen, which I have just finished so I have itchy fingers. The 350 cafe racer I'm building won't last long.



I have been lurking around for the last week and have already found this site handy. I'll try to post as much as possible of the build but it might be a slow start as it is still the wet season up here and it is to hot to work most of the time.


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grant69
moderator


Joined: 27 Jan 2004
Posts: 2796
Location: Cairns Nth Qld

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum, nice looking FJ


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libbor
Banned for bullying.


Joined: 01 Feb 2009
Posts: 1341
Location: Ghoulbon

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome, we are a helpful bunch so anything you need to know....

Are you going to be able to use that number plate, down here, if it has not been used for 12 months it has to be handed in. It would be good if you can reregister with it

cheers

Libbor


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graham
At rest


Joined: 06 Dec 2008
Posts: 744
Location: Wanguri NT

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'day

Welcome to our little community.
You will probably need the second side valve motor in the boot to run the air con. to make the car usable in the wet. That is why I have gone for the Mazda in mine to run the air con.

Cheers
Graham
Very Happy Blue Sedan Very Happy


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grant,

thanks

libbor,

they were on the car when I got it, as you can tell she hasn't been on the road for some time. We have the same rule up here I would have to check with MVR if they are available but it will be a long build so proberly not worth it.

If anyone recognises the car or plates and has any history I would be interested.


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We will be back in Brisvagas before it needs to be registered so that's not a big one


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 10:00 pm    Post subject: Door Hinge Bolts. Reply with quote

Hi all,

Well Tess has named the car Violet and wan'ts her to be painted blue. We started to strip her down on the weekend which was fairly easy as most of the running gear is already out.
I have come up against some tough bolts on the doors. Three of the hex heads, with the short head, are stuck firm and I don't want to round then off. Just checking if it is better to try the phillips heads and leave the hinges on the car?

Dave


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jimmy_d
Full Licence


Joined: 29 Aug 2009
Posts: 322
Location: Melbourne eastern suburbs

PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and welcome to the group! I had the same problem initially with my door hinges but found that a little persuassion with an impact wrench and some crc did the job without damaging the heads badly.Love the FJ,I've done all that sort of stuff to but have given up on bigger cars,just fiddle with my 1960 2 door now and dont rush about it either.He has a 1.3ltr toyota engine and auto box,Ive replaced rubbers and done some rust repair and body work and thats about it for the last year,Im hoping to get restarted soon.Good luck with your project,pics are good and there is always someone here who can help.Regards Pete.


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bigcarle
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 578
Location: lota, brisbane bayside

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

with regard to your hinges and any other hard to undo stuff on the car,
i dont usually recommend something but this one has impressed me
INOX great stuff works better than WD-40 and RP-7, 9 times out of 10 it will loosen the offending object.


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well decided to make a move and strip Violet. Got some witworth spanners and sockets and the manual off ebay got Tess the camera and made a start. Two saturdays and a sunday and she is ready for a blasting.







Found a little rust, less than I thought.


Passenger door weatherstrip.


Drivers side rear window weatherstrip.


Drivers A pillar.


Passenger A pillar.


Floors are the same both sides, I'd say she has had water sitting in her for a while.


Sills are good but will wait till after blasting before dancing a jig.


Boot is in fairly good nick, just light surface rust

The only rust in the hanging panels was across the bottom of the boot lid and one hole behind the strip on the bonnet.


Dose anyone know if the 51 MM had the M on the hubcap? Or have I got later wheels and caps on ours?


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,

Found this on the passenger kick panel trim when we stripped Violet. Secrewed on with two brass screws. Just wondering if anyone else has seen them or know of them. It would be interesting to see how many we can find.



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sunalp2
Free Wheeling


Joined: 05 Aug 2006
Posts: 123
Location: Melbourne (the center of the Universe)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got one of those from a 56 2 door I used to have.


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BenB
I can steer now


Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 152
Location: Cobram vic

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes my wifes 61 2door also has one


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libbor
Banned for bullying.


Joined: 01 Feb 2009
Posts: 1341
Location: Ghoulbon

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cecil has one too Very Happy

The number matches with the stock number on the original invoice.

Mine was attached to the top screw of the lh kick panel. Although mine is faded.


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,

wel blasted some pannels the other day (photos to follow ), got the guards and grill done, just the doors boot and bonnet to go. All in etch now till I get the body done aswell.

Thinking about the brake upgrade the other day, can anyone telll me the difference between the MM and 1000 brakes?
Are the 1000 front axels the same as a MM?
Will a 1000 diff bolt into a MM?

Cheers, I need to put my jumper on now and ride to work, cathch you later.


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Scouse
moderator


Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Posts: 5266
Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

51 MMmmm wrote:
Thinking about the brake upgrade the other day, can anyone telll me the difference between the MM and 1000 brakes?
They're both the same size.

Are the 1000 front axels the same as a MM?
No. However, fitting 1000 type uprights/stub axles will enable the easy fitment of Major brakes (or discs).

Will a 1000 diff bolt into a MM?
Yes.



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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks mate


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,

As I am doing Violet for my little girl, I would like to update the brakes. I am thinking Corrolla all round. The front should be easy, 1000 uprights with Trevs ke55/70 conversion. The rear is where I have some questions.

Will the diff ration from a Sunny or Corrolla be OK with a fully rebuilt sidevalve, (bored, alloy head, elec ignition, all the fruit)?

Will the diff from a Sunny or Corrolla need to be narrowed to fit under a MM?

Also has anyone ever fitted a later jap/morris gearbox to a sidevalve?


Cheers.


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Scouse
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Posts: 5266
Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're retaining the sidevalve engine & want to fit Corolla discs, then leave the original rear axle as is.

It's plenty strong enough for every day use & you'll have matching wheel PCDs too (Series MM is the same PCD as 4 stud Toyots/Datsun).


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scouse,

Thanks for the replys. By leaving the diff I'll have stud on the rear and nuts on the front, Will this cause any problems? Will I have to run different rims, didn't the MM rims have a different angle on the stud seat to the later rims with nuts?

I was also hoping to use a diff with a ration that is a little faster in the top end.

Clarky


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grumpy
Happy to be Grumpy


Joined: 19 May 2006
Posts: 79

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarky;

Any gearbox can be made to fit it is just a matter of making an adaptor plate to suit and modifying a clutch to fit the input shaft and fly wheel.

What you need to remember is that it is a case of not enough neddies after all it is an eight horse power motor and every one of them is a shetlan.


Regards Grumpy


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Scouse
moderator


Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Posts: 5266
Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

51 MMmmm wrote:
By leaving the diff I'll have stud on the rear and nuts on the front, Will this cause any problems? Will I have to run different rims, didn't the MM rims have a different angle on the stud seat to the later rims with nuts?

I was also hoping to use a diff with a ration that is a little faster in the top end.

The Series MM wheels are rather weak & often develop cracks around the bolt holes. As a result, steel Datsun wheels are a common fitment (usually 180B) & I've never heard of them creating problems.
The 'M' hubcaps are correct for the 51/52 Series MMs so don't loose them - they're hard to come by.


Going for a higher diff ratio will make it faster at the top end in theory only. If you're retaining the SV motor, it will be struggling to get you up there though.
The standard diff ratio behind the SV is 4.55:1. I often think that a slightly higher ratio would be nice on a freeway run.............until I hit the first hill Eye Rolls .


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scouse, Grumpy,

Thanks, it's always good to run ideas past others before spending. I have never driven a MM so it's good to get this sort of advice.

Clarky


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51 MMmmm
5th gear


Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keperra, BRISBANE

PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 8:47 pm    Post subject: A new beginning. Reply with quote

Hi all

Been a while. We moved back to Brisbane. I have just finished a pool shed and ensuite so everyone is happy and I can play with my bike again until Tess says to me the other day that it is two years till she can get her licence.

So bike back in the corner and get the morry down from the MIL shed.

I have been planning this for a while and have a fair plan laid out but have come up against a snag with my engine choice.
I would really Like to use this engine as it would be very cool and reliable for Tess.

in order to make a decision I need to know if anyone has moved the steering rack lower under the engine?
I know I would have to move the steering arms on the uprights to maintain steering control, but has this ever been done?
Possibly bolt a arm to the back of the upright using the bolts/holes from the brake backing plate then mount the rack under the rails....

OR has anyone played around with strut front ends into a Morris. I'm thinking AE86/KE70 struts arms etc. Would loose lever arms all together for eng bay room, lower rack to clear bell housing. 🤔

Any thought?


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MorryStu
valued contributor


Joined: 02 Jan 2005
Posts: 260
Location: Grafton, NSW North Coast

PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strut front end is extremely hard to do and would need serious modification and full engineers certification. Hope you have LOTS of money for that

Moving the steering rack is also going to give the same problems and wont achieve anything

Why dont you want to use the original suspension ?

You would be best to keep it and put in disk brakes and telescopic shocks and leave the original suspension in place. The original suspension geometry is actually very good and morries do handle very well if they are set up corrrectly

Also

Ditch the side valve and go for a 948 and give it a bit of a tickle.


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