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Time for a New Paintjob (Pics!) Registered!!! 23/2/2008
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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:51 pm    Post subject: Time for a New Paintjob (Pics!) Registered!!! 23/2/2008 Reply with quote

Ok, the last serious step in my resto is the paintjob. It's gonna be a home job, but I think I can do it ok. I'm posting this as a bit of a record, but also in an effort to keep me motivated to have it done in plenty of time for the Morris day in October at Ormiston. Any advice or suggestions are most welcome. So here goes...

At this point, I'm leaning towards the original Yaan Cream as a colour, but it's not set in stone yet!. This is what he looked like on Saturday.

The body is in surprisingly good condition, I'd done effectively nothing to it (ie the body) since I got the car about four years ago. It was last registered in 1985, has surface rust on the guards, slight damage to the boot lid and grille panel and two small well patched rust repairs in the floor.

There was, however, a large crease dent running almost the full length of the roof. As this was the worst of the bodywork issues, I thought I'd tackle it first. It had been really roughly bogged and left.

After stripping it back to bare metal, it took two days of sanding and filling to get it back to a finish that I'm almost happy with.
I'm forever more going to work on the assumption that you'll only ever need to do four MORE coats of filler before the job is finished, because when you are finally finished, it'll be a plesant surprise. Eye Rolls

I'm going to strip the balance of the roof completely and give this section a rub over again before we get to undercoat. I really just wanted to get the profile right.

Then the front guards came off with little fuss. (does anyone have a pair of servicable hockey sticks that they can sell me!?)

Luckilly, no horrors lurked within, the other side was this good too! I plan to keep him in running order for as long as possible, but the engine and 'box will be coming out for the spray.

I also had a go at test fitting the carpet I'd cut and edged. So far so good.

I've still got to make the floor mats, but they'll be similar design & colour.

More as I do more...




Last edited by Shawn on Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:02 pm; edited 15 times in total
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dirty hands
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Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Posts: 693
Location: Ipswich QLD

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the panels for my morry project so will be starting the painting part soon as well Very Happy\
so I will be looking on with great intrest

the curves look tricky to get smooth

trev aus also made a great post about painting a morry
in mechanical and body work forum
deserves a sticky but here is the link
http://www.morrisdownunder.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2104


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Triumph Man
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Joined: 13 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you got a great car to start with. The rule is if you can feel the dent with your hand it will stand out like you know whats.
& clean it after every step, with wax & grease remover.
Keep the photo's comin Very Happy
Trev
Aus


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Scouse
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Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep up the good work Shawn.
It's good to see such a good body to start with so you should have a nice car at the end of it.

Take your time & it'll pay off doing it yourself. Preparation is 99% of the job. The colour just covers the hard work Very Happy .


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Shawn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, a bit more work today. Stripped and treated the front LHS guard. Cleaned and painted the underside to protect it.

Next time anyone tells you surface rust is no big deal, wallop them for me, ok. It's going to take at least a few coats of spray filler to fill the pits from the "surface" rust.

Extractors painted. (Thanks Skidmond!) and Floor mats edged and ready (and yes, they are meant to be different sizes!)



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Skidmond
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Location: Tasmania

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats coming along great Shawn, keep up the good work. I will also be watching with interest as you progress, it will give me the motivation I need to get started on the convertible Very Happy


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dirty hands
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Location: Ipswich QLD

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:46 pm    Post subject: morry rebirths Reply with quote

and what a job ahead you have

it will give me the motivation I need to get started on "Winston"


um how are you going to paint under the car?


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Shawn
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't decided exactly what I gonna do with the underside. Without a rotisserie (sp?) it won't be a fun job.


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Scouse
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn wrote:
I haven't decided exactly what I gonna do with the underside. Without a rotisserie (sp?) it won't be a fun job.
3 or 4 old tyres, a bit of space & you're set to go Very Happy .
If the car is a stripped shell, it's a one man job to tip it on it's side. Being a 4 door, make sure you keep the base of the B/C (centre) pillar off the ground - it's easy to damage the finisher piece that's fitted.


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dirty hands
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes I can lift "Winston"
up on his side or front up or back up
enough to do one section at a time

it is a stripped shell already

was also thinking of using killrust paint that might help

got welding to do later on Eye Rolls


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Shawn
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


Etch Primed. I'm pretty happy with this so far. This was done as a test panel, to see if I was going to have the patience to do the lot myself. This was the worst panel by far. I'll go at the next front guard and then the rears as a pair. Don't worry, I'm not gonna post this many pics of each one!

Just for reference too, I've done panel repairs with a reasonable degree of success, resprayed a car with rattle cans (with a lesser degree of success) and read widely on home resprays with a compressor. I've never actually done one myself, so this is a "lets-take-all-care-possible-and-see-what-happens" type of exercise.


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Shawn
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


Rear Guards removed, only one small rust issue, passenger side rearmost drain hole was blocked.

Sill finisher and sill panels removed. No issues other than light surface rust, but I now have a new "Least Favorite" Morris Minor job.
(Really - did they need to have SEVEN bolts on each side? - gawd! Seriously considering having user name changed to "Skinned Knuckles" or "SirSwearAlot")


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jg1982
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Joined: 19 Jan 2006
Posts: 185
Location: Adelaide

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had to resort to using a grinder to remove the sill finsher bolts, sometimes it's the easiest way


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Scouse
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Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good progress Shawn.

Now you'll appreciate having nice, clear drain holes Very Happy .
There's a few nice restorations around - it's a shame when you stick your head underneath & they haven't put any drain holes in their nice new sills Eye Rolls .


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oliver-morrisminor
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Location: Brisbane, Redlands.

PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Shawn
I just saw your posting.
Progress is coming along great.
You are doing a great job.
Do you think it will be ready for the Display Day?
Or mayber the Nationals?

Oli


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dirty hands
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

questions

that grey crumbly stuff already on the panels and shell what is it "

is it lead or poision to remove

everytime i start removing it I feel crook , itch or skin rash




Last edited by dirty hands on Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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Scouse
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bitumen type material ?

It's difficult to remove so maybe you're just allergic to hard work Very Happy .


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Shawn
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'day Again,

Oli, sorry I didn't see your question from June - I've been checking the forum most days, but totally missed it. The plan is STILL to have it ready for the display day (this year (no, really!)). It won't be totally finished, but it'll be registered and roadworthy.

The plan is to register it on the 20th September, so I'll have about a month of weekends/evenings to iron out bugs. I might have to push this date by a week.

I've had heaps happening in my little world since the last lot of pics, and have done basically nothing more since then. My schedule's freed up a bit now, so weekends and evenings are gonna be BUSY.

I've made a list of jobs that need to be done, guessed at the amount of time required for each, and it is do-able.

As of today, I have 2 months to get it done... I REALLY want to get it registered. It's been way too long.

Most of the paint stripping I've been doing has been done with chemical stuff. I'm very careful to keep it off my skin.


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Shawn
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Engine came out today without too much fuss. it took much longer than I expected, though. Removing the corroded front panel bolts and the Uni joint took as long as all the rest.

Stuff should start to happen now...


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Triumph Man
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn wrote:
but I now have a new "Least Favorite" Morris Minor job.
(Really - did they need to have SEVEN bolts on each side? - gawd! Seriously considering having user name changed to "Skinned Knuckles" or "SirSwearAlot")


I give up undoing them, get a good pair of safety glasses, & use a 1mm (great things) disc in a small grinder, & cut the nuts off, these thin discs are heaps easier to cut accurate than the 3mm ones, they hardly grind on the sides so don't damage the part.
then replace them with zinc coated bolts coated with copper coat.
Trev
Aus


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Shawn
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some more progress:
Original engine, but now with a Mini 1100 cam and crank dampener. I've finished the 12G202 (shaved 50 thou) head as well, but forgot to take the picture.

Colour's a bit lighter than standard, but still better than before!

Also cleaned and painted the engine mounts, gearbox crossmember, horn, starter motor, crank handle support and some other bits. See the "before" engine in the background.
I REALLY need more room...

I've got this coming week off work, all to work on the car. If it's not ready in time it won't be for lack of trying!


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dirty hands
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ll be onto my engine soon I will go a std 950 rebuild

the heads a write off

I was intrested in the block preperation for the painting of yours
did you paint before the pistons went in ?
and what colour/brand of engine paint you chose

thanks for reading




Last edited by dirty hands on Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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Shawn
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Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's not cracked, that head is probably saveable. The one I'm using now started in a similar state. As for the block, I think you might need a rebore... Shocked

These are pics of the head I'm using:

It had been sitting uncovered in a shed with the plugs out for years. All the valves were siezed and it was full of mud wasp nests. I wanted to try porting and polishing, so I figured if I was ever going to have a go this one would be the one to try it on. I soaked and gently freed the valves, and on cleaning found them all to be useable. The valve guides were also servicable. It took a fair bit of work, and heaps of wire brushing. I've re-ground the valves and they seat very well.

Before:

After (cost about $62 - 50th shave & crack test and engine paint):

I didn't think I could save the water pump!

I didn't need to do a full rebuild on the block; it has good oil pressure and compression, but I wanted a slightly better cam and head.

For the engine painting, I couldn't find the correct BMC green at a reasonable price, so (on advice from my local paintshop) had them mix a tin of gloss enamel to a sample. They assure me it'll be ok. (We'll see!)

I have used enamel on inlet manifolds and ancillaries before with good results, just never on a block. The head is the same Kermit green as the previous one. As for preparation, I made sure the block was grease free, gave it a thorough clean down with thinners and brushed on the paint.


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oliver-morrisminor
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Location: Brisbane, Redlands.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top Job Shawn,
You can come and work for me anytime.
(Wages to be negotiated, we'll talk about
the money after the job has been done)
Oli


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John Ballard
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Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is easy to get the correct colour paint for engine job.
I removed tappet cover drilled out pop rivets on morris badge,and there you have original colour.
Took this to paint shop and they mixed up 500ml to match.
I cleaned motor parts then wiped with wax and grease remover before painting. Yellow Sedan Blue Ute Eye Rolls Eye Rolls


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