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crackers
Free Wheeling


Joined: 28 Mar 2016
Posts: 123
Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought working on cars was supposed to be therapeutic. HAH!
Too many more nights like tonight and I'll wind UP in therapy.

Got the brake shoes back today - only the front ones were relined, we reckoned the rears had so little wear it didn't matter. That much was easy.

Then came fitting the sods. I'm sure there's an easy way to fit the shoes and the springs but I'll damned if I could find it. The shed rang with profanity can, now that I think of it, I didn't see the dog for some time. I reckon it took over three hours to fit the buggers.

So how DO you fit the shoes and the springs? There has to be an easy way... doesn't there?

Then came fitting the drums and adjusting them. Simply slide them on, turn up the adjuster (I know, two on the front) till it locks, then back off a click.
The right front, the first drum I did, behaved perfectly, though when I backed off the click, the drum spun freely instead of having a light drag.
Then the right rear. Again, all as expected though the drag was heavier.
Left rear. Fight, swear, fiddle - eventually got it working with a similar drag to the right hand side.
Now the left front - remember, this has new shoes. First I had trouble getting the drum on. Then couldn't get the drum to turn. Then couldn't get the drum off. Snarling and swearing, I managed to get the sod off and tried again. Same result.

The four drums had been measured at the shop and while three were 80 thou oversized, one was 60 thou. Thinking I might have put the 60 thou on the front, I pulled it off so I could swap it with the left rear. Smart thinking eh?

Well, first I had to get the left rear drum OFF. With the adjusters backed off (only a click as it happens), the brute would spin freely but do your reckon it'd come off? I was damned near ready to reach for the angle grinder.
Eventually it relented - maybe it was embarrassed by my language. Anyways, that drum off, other drum on.

Now this isn't as daft as it sounds because all four drums were now back on the wheels they started from. The only reason I'd swapped those two originally was because I thought one was the 60 thou oversized and had thought I'd put that on the rear. Maybe, I thought, I'd got mixed up and put the 60 thou on the front where of course it wouldn't fit the 80 thou oversized shoes. Hence the swap.

Well, the rear drum went on and adjusted as you'd expect, with similar drag to the other side.
The front though, well, the brute went on but with the adjusters set all the way off, it's still got heavy drag... whereas the other side on the front spins freely (and I can't go one click more because that locks it).

I can't say I'm particularly happy with the end result. I'll have to drive it a bit and then check the brakes again, but I am afraid that with the drag, I'll glaze the left front shoes and that she won't stop straight because of the difference in adjustment.

At least the brake pedal's hard, just like my head.


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crackers
Free Wheeling


Joined: 28 Mar 2016
Posts: 123
Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, you all want to know how I suffered tonight don't you. Well...

I mucked about with the clutch a fair bit. It appears it does indeed need to be adjusted very near the end of that long bolt (along which you do the adjusting). I'm still hopeful that much of the problem is wear and consequent slop in all the other linkages though a usable adjustment is definitely at the end of that long rod. I'm hoping I'm not heading for a new clutch but if this is still the original, I can't really complain (but I will, of course). Still completely confused as to how to adjust a clutch mechanism that's this sloppy.

Not fussed at the moment, as long as I can change gears while managing to leave a few teeth on the cogs.

The brakes?
Well, I now have brakes in that if I were to buy this car today, I wouldn't comment on the brakes. Huge improvement... except that it pulls to the right.

Now that confuses me. The right front is the wheel that spins freely with the adjuster set one click back from locked whereas the left is the one that drags heavily. An explanation would be nice, but she's definitely pulling right. On the other hand, brake pedal forces are pretty normal which is a huge advance over what I had before.

Because I have this classic car event on sunday (and it's now friday), I'm going to drive her around a bit on saturday to scuff the pads down a bit, revisit the adjustment on sat arvo, then enjoy her on sunday. I've a holiday in a week's time and I'll pull the drum then and have a look at how it's worn.

Oh, and my tyre pressures are either monumentally wrong or the suspension is really stupid. For what it's worth, the tyre bloke set them at 32psi and I haven't touched them. Tomorrow, I'll be dropping them down quite a bit - I suspect I need a few psi more in the front than in the back.

She's still not right, but she's closer to right. I'm making progress.


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John Ballard
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Joined: 11 Feb 2004
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Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with 24 PSI front and back and try it no need to have the back heavier if there is no load.
Have you got a workshop manual??? You can download one here.
The brakes shoes are best put on with the springs fitted, then stretch them over the cylinders.
After fitting jump on pedal a couple of times and then tap around the drum with a hammer, then check adjustment again.
Hope this helps


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crackers
Free Wheeling


Joined: 28 Mar 2016
Posts: 123
Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I have now have modern conveniences - brakes that work more or less as intended. The pulling to the right is much reduced except under heaving braking. Sometimes it begins to shudder under braking and that stays for a few stops. I'm on holidays in a week's time and I'll pull the front drums and, if it looks like it's necessary, clean them up with a file.

Dropped the tyre pressures to 28psi front, 26 rear - huge improvement... and I now know that the rear dampers don't.

Drove to my son's soccer match, 20 mins each way. This left me feeling sick - obviously the leaking exhaust is a major issue. Not only do I need the Moggy tomorrow, I want her during the week as well, so I decided to do a 'bodge job' and use some high temperature silastic.

My first surprise was how easy it is to work in there, lots of room, even enough room to swing a ratchet. The clamp came off easily, the exhaust came off easily. Then my first surprise - there doesn't appear to be a gasket. I was expecting a fibrous (they used to be asbestos) donut gasket in there, but it appears the manifold fits directly into a flare on the exhaust pipe. That flare on the exhaust pipe was uneven, no wonder it leaked. My bodge wasn't going to be a bodge after all.

A thin bead of silastic was added to the flare of the exhaust, then the exhaust married up to the manifold. The clamp went on easily, the first nut did up nicely, then I found why I had an exhaust leak in the first place - the second nut was stripped, actually, only nearly so and I finished the job. Bugga. A dig through my tin of nuts and bolts failed to turn up a replacement (I was sure I had one, don't you?) so I wound up using a quarter inch steel nut and bolt (didn't have the right thread steel nut for the existing bolt).

Anyway, job done. Let's hope it seals and, of course, I've now got a nut to buy.

I'd found a brand new dizzy cap in the box of bits that came with car. You beaut, I thought, and installed. Driving off to my son's soccer match, she was smooth and powerful. I'd also revisited the timing... and the mixture. However, after a time, including some running at 60mph, she started misfiring, something that got worse. Bummer.

However, once I was home again, I realised what I'd done wrong. The high tension leads are held in place with a grub screw that spikes a hole through the insulation and into the copper. I'd simply pushed the lead in and done up the grub screw. It occurred to me that I should have cut off the old end so the screw had new cable to bite into. So I redid the job, simply cutting off the lead just past the old screw hole and refitting it. This went easily though the high tension lead to the coil is now a bit tight, I'll need a new one - serves me right for thinking I'd fixed something without having to spend money seeing I'd found the new dizzy cap in the box of bits that came with the car.

Unfortunately, I couldn't test things because I didn't want to blow the silastic out of the exhaust flange so if she doesn't start tomorrow morning, I'll be waking the neighbours up with my swearing.


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crackers
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Joined: 28 Mar 2016
Posts: 123
Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Ballard wrote:
Start with 24 PSI front and back and try it no need to have the back heavier if there is no load.
Have you got a workshop manual??? You can download one here.
The brakes shoes are best put on with the springs fitted, then stretch them over the cylinders.
After fitting jump on pedal a couple of times and then tap around the drum with a hammer, then check adjustment again.
Hope this helps


I went with 28 because I was feeling conservative. I'll certainly be going lower, maybe just letting the tyres drop on their own accord until I find that sweet spot.


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Scouse
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original Minor manifold to downpipe clamp was only a pressed metal affair that's pretty weak. Later Minis used a cast iron clamp which is much stronger & holds the joint a lot better.
Nothing wrong with using silastic on the exhaust - I've used it for years on the Rover V8, with or without a supporting gasket.

Check the tie bar rubbers for wear - if they're worn, they can contribute to brake shudder. Weak front dampers won't help either.


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crackers
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Joined: 28 Mar 2016
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Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scouse wrote:
The original Minor manifold to downpipe clamp was only a pressed metal affair that's pretty weak. Later Minis used a cast iron clamp which is much stronger & holds the joint a lot better.
Nothing wrong with using silastic on the exhaust - I've used it for years on the Rover V8, with or without a supporting gasket.


Thanks.

Quote:
Check the tie bar rubbers for wear - if they're worn, they can contribute to brake shudder. Weak front dampers won't help either.


Will do. I'd be surprised to find anything on this old girl that's in good nick, she's a genuine survivor car... but showing why such vehicles sometimes don't make good regular transport.


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zabond
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Joined: 28 May 2012
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Location: Neerim East Victoria Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you take the drums off again make sure that your shoe springs[that you were having trouble with] aren't rubbing on your hubs[wont effect your braking, but if you wear one through you'll sure know about it Mad ]
Russ


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jax
overdrive


Joined: 19 Feb 2007
Posts: 89
Location: Melbourne

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you get the clutch sorted? mine is doing the same thing,pedal low, no freeplay that I can feel Ive just installed a 1098 ribcase box and new fork and throwout bearing, not sure if I should screw the adjuster up or let it off. Whenever I try to work out the linkage it makes my brain hurt. crawling underneath is a pain (literally) I'd like to have a clear idea what to do before I get under there again. any suggestions gratefully received
Cheers JohnG


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DON58VAN
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
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Location: Sydney/Bowral

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ribcase gearbox takes a different throwout fork from the smoothcase -- is your new fork the correct type?


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jax
overdrive


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Location: Melbourne

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Don yes I used a new 1098 fork and bearing from ESM......


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crackers
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Joined: 28 Mar 2016
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Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Straps straps straps Eye Rolls

Had a happy couple of hours in the shed - happy in that I achieved stuff, broke nothing and STILL managed to improve the car Shocked

First off, the strap that holds the rear seat up.
A local motor trimmer was able to supply the lift-the-dot faster and pylon, my dad had a couple of bolts that fitted the trapped 'nut' in the seat itself and I'd cut the end off a 1" nylon strap earlier in the week. Put the lot together and you get this:



I gave it a long tail so I can just reach in through the boot, grab the strap and pull up the seat. It's probably too long but I can always cut a bit off later.

I was just about to throw out the left over strap when I realised there might be enough there to do the door pulls. A quick experiment later showed I had enough to do all four door pulls with some left over. So, out with the knife and the bifurcated rivets and a while later, all four doors had fancy new door pulls (the existing ones had been made by the previous owner out of dress material).



All in all, I'm rather pleased with my afternoon.


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admin.
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2016 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



flash .... well done



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crackers
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Joined: 28 Mar 2016
Posts: 123
Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2016 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got to work this morning, and found that the computer that hosts the software that drives the place, had taken the day off ... so we wound up having a day off too... for free because we're all employed as casual labour.

Being an enthusiastic Moggy defender, after lunch, I headed out to the shed, pulled on my overalls and set about trying not to break things.

Regular readers will remember that I did battle with the brakes a few weeks back. As the left front brake had proven impossible to adjust (too tight), and I've now done a few hundred miles, my first job was to revisit the brakes in the fond assumption that the linings would have worn a bit.

I knew I was in for a good day when I remembered to loosen the wheel nuts before jacking her up (stop laughing).

I revisited that thought half way through putting her up on the work stands.

With the trusty trolley jack under an engine rail, I lifted one side and positioned a work stand. Moving the jack to the other side, I got her up about half way when I noticed the jack head pulling forward on the engine rail. Eeeek. My Moggy is a grubby, oily little thing and so I've got cardboard underneath to catch the oil drips. As the jack pulled itself forward, the rear wheels came up against the rear of the cardboard... and stopped.

This, gentle reader, is why you ALWAYS fit blocks fore and aft of the wheels not being jacked, I could so easily have pulled the car forward on the already positioned stand.

Anyways, she was now safely installed on my workshop stands, and my nice clean overalls were now filthy from where I'd been lying under the car positioning jacks and stands and stuff. A few minutes later, the first wheel was off... and I'd discovered that the wheel brace that came with the car didn't fit Moggy wheel nuts. Not a problem in the shed because I usually use my socket set. Bit useless on the side of the road though, so I went digging through my shelves of 'stuff' and guess what!

I FOUND A STARTING HANDLE!

Must be the last thing remaining from my first car because it was the only car I've owned that had one. It's now in the boot.

But back to serious stuff.
One wheel off, and feeling confident, I went around to the other side of the car... where I found I'd parked too close to the shelving and while I could still work on the car, it was going to be a pain in the proverbial.
So why didn't I notice this when loosening the wheel nuts? I hear you ask.
Because that would have made the job easy. Hey, it's my workshop, I'll make a mess of things my way thank you.

Wheels off.
Brake drums off.
Hang on, why did both drums come off easily without backing off the adjusters?

Interestingly, the brake linings showed even wear with no glazing. Good stuff seeing I'd been unable to back the left hand side off far enough when the linings were new.

Fastidious and mechanically correct mechanics may wish to skip this next bit.
I got a bit of wet and dry paper, used dry, and carefully sanded the brake linings, just to make sure there was no glazing as the new linings had all seemed a bit oversized when fitted and had hence been 'adjusted' with more drag than I liked.

All cleaned up, I refitted the drums and adjusted the brakes and was surprised to note that not only was I able to adjust them as per the manual, I was able to take up a number of clicks before they locked. Also of interest were those infernal left hand brakes where the rear cylinder needed noticeably more clicks than the front.

Regardless, I was able to adjust the brakes evenly on both sides.

THIS was a result!

So I turned my brain cell to another conundrum.

I'd already fixed one exhaust leak, that around the flange between the manifold and the pipe itself, but I was convinced there were others and I now set about finding them.

To find exhaust leaks, one must start the engine.
The car was in gear, hand brake on, blocks fore and aft of the rear wheels, front end up on stands.
Can you see the potential for drama?
So could I. I remembered to knock her out of gear, so you doubters can back off.

Engine running, using my hand to feel for exhaust leaks, I confirmed the manifold flange still sealed, the join between the muffler and the front pipe was sound, BUT, there was a leak at the front of the muffler where the pipe enters the box, a sod of a place to fix. Once aware of it, you could even see a black stain the muffler where the exhaust had been blowing. Fortunately, it was small. Working backwards, there was another at the rear where I'd added that extension to repair the broken tailpipe.

A quick trip inside, I rescued my tube of high temp silastic from the fridge (keeps it fresh, even after opening), and walked back towards the shed... where I noticed splodges of dog poo that matched my stride length. A check of my shoes and yes, I'd stepped in something the Supervisor of Operations had deposited and not only had I walked it up the path alongside the house, presumably had walked it inside as well. There are times I'm glad I'm a bachelor.

Remembering to pull on a pair of latex gloves, I set about 'sealing' the exhaust leaks. Unfortunately, I could do little more than smear and gob silastic over the leaks. I did my best to force the stuff inside the joint but... well, it's a bit pointless. The correct fix is to buy a new exhaust pipe but the shops expect you to pay for their parts. That's not going to happen in the short term, and in a few weeks won't matter because I can't afford to re-register her. But I did my best. How I miss the muffler bandages and putties you could buy in the good old days. My first car's exhaust was more repair than metal/rust by the time we fitted a new one.

Then there's the other problem, I'm darned sure there's another leak but do you reckon I could remember where it was? And I couldn't start up the engine to find it because that would have blown out/off the silastic 'seals' I'd just applied. Grrrrrr.

Before putting the wheels back on, I decided to clean up the front suspension. There was a lot of ancient grease/dirt mix coating everything, so I got out a light hammer and screwdriver to knock all that old crap off. This is purely a vanity thing, and I certainly wasn't looking for perfectly clean components, but even with a rough clean I reckon I'd knocked off enough crud to allow the front end to sit about an inch higher once back on the wheels. I had planned to pump some grease into the top and bottom grease nipples while there but from the way it was leaking past the seams, it wasn't needed... so I didn't.

Finally I got her wheels back on and was able to drop her back to the ground. It's always a nice feeling when she's supporting her own weight. I don't know about you, but I'm never happy when a vehicle is supported on something other than her own suspension and wheels. My dirty/greasy overalls were hung up from a convenient hook, lights off, radio off (I'm sure they were discussing something interesting but I don't remember it), phone in my pocket, I even remembered to take the keys out of the ignition and put them in my pocket - important because that keyring has the only shed key and if I locked them inside, I wasn't going to be getting back in to rescue them.

Oh, and I scraped then washed the dog poo out of the treads on my shoes.


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crackers
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Joined: 28 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My exhaust leak repairs didn't hold. I'm not completely surprised though I was disappointed to see that the extension on the rear of the exhaust pipe is pretty much just rattling around around.

So I bought a muffler bandage, jacked one side of the car up (yes, on stands with blocks fore and aft of the wheels on the other side) and tried to clean up the silastic repair at the front of the muffler. Dreadful job, that stuff really sticks and it wasn't helped by limited access to one part of the job... the critical part of course. Eventually I got it cleaned up and moved to the back. The extension/tail pipe join was relatively easy to clean up using my power drill and a nylon brush.

The bandage instructions tell you get the exhaust hot before starting. This also gave me a chance to look for other leaks. Engine running, I was surprised to find that the muffler leak seemed to be still sealed - it still copped the muffler bandage fix though. The rear extension leaked with undue enthusiasm.

And so I opened the packet of muffler bandage. I'd been expecting something like you used to get - a couple of mm thick, soft, more putty than anything else. What I got was some metalic woven cloth that felt vaguely sticky (yes, I was wearing gloves).

I tackled the muffler repair first. There's a pipe welded into the front of the muffler, but the weld join is raised and about 5mm in front of the muffler and that's what was leaking. I wrapped it around the pipe entering the muffler, wrapping it up onto the face of the muffler and about two inches forward, then pulled a hose clamp down onto it as close to the front of the muffler as I could - the idea was to bunch up the bandage between that raised weld and the muffler and pull it down with the clamp. It seemed to work. The rest of the muffler bandage was wired in place.

At the rear, I wrapped the joint a bit over an inch either side of the join, pulled a hose clamp down on the smaller of the two pipes (the tail pipe) just in front of the join, then wired the bandage in place either side of the join.

To be honest, I was disappointed with the bandage as it didn't want to sit flat and seemed rather happy to just fall apart. Handle gently. Good brand too, not cheap stuff.

Anyway, job done, I had to run the engine for half an hour, the idea being to get the epoxy in the tape hot which makes it set... so I went for a drive... that lasted nearly and hour

Did it work?
Hard to tell. The car is a lot quieter but certainly not quiet - I suspect the muffler is shot (although it looks good) and I'm getting a lot of resonance in the car. Certainly the floor covering is pretty rubbish so it could be it needs a good look at the sound proofing.

I'm not completely convinced I'm not getting gassed either.
Summary, I'm trying to work out just how disappointed I am and how much of that's justified. Possibly I'm being too hard on her.

And now for the compulsory photos... only I didn't take any. If someone asks, I'll go out and take some.


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crackers
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Photos and explanations

Tail pipe, where an extension had been added to the old pipe:



As noted above, that extension was larger than the tailpipe. Basically, in this repair, I wrapped the bandage around the tailpipe and the extension, then placed a hose clamp on the tailpipe, just in front of the join, to pull the bandage down over the gap between the two pipes, then wired it in place.

Muffler:



The muffler has a raised seam about 5mm in front of the face of the muffler and that's what was leaking. I wrapped the bandage up onto the face of the muffler and over the pipe, a few wrappings there, then along the inlet pipe. I then used the hose clamp to pull the bandage down onto the raised seam and hopefully bunching it into the gap between the seam and the face of the muffler. The rest was then wired in place.

Although it's quieter, there's still a lot of boom in the car. Looking at it when I took these photos, the top of the exhaust flow out the back is directed into the over-rider which makes me wonder if I'm not getting exhaust noise reflected back into the car. Considering how much difference the above repairs made, I wouldn't be surprised... so how to fix it?


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Scouse
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crackers wrote:
so how to fix it?
I think it's time for a new system.
if the old system fits OK (especially over the rear axle area), then take it off & have a new pipe bent up in one length.
If you're concerned about the front pipe/ manifold joint at all, Mini specialists sell a repair section.

If the exhaust doesn't fit well enough for a copy, get in touch with you local club - someone there is bound to have a decent exhaust going spare. I think there's a few in my shed but postage might be a killer.


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crackers
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Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A new system is the way to go, but I won't have the money for a couple of months or more. Meantime, my fuel pump is dying (loud clattering) and they aren't cheap either. Probably doesn't matter, she's due for rego at the end of the month and... you guessed it


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MorryStu
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Joined: 02 Jan 2005
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Location: Grafton, NSW North Coast

PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel pumps are cheap

Get one of these. I have had one on the ute for a while now.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-AU-/131318770921?hash=item1e93356ce9:g:iEQAAOSwR0JUN7H7

As for the exhaust its had it. Muffler patches will cost more in the end

Get a set if decent exhaust headers like these. hey make a big difference

http://minisport.com.au/morris-minora-large-bore-freeflow-exhaust-manifold-1875-id


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crackers
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Joined: 28 Mar 2016
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Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That fuel pump is interesting. Does it go in the same place on the firewall? If you're running one, I'm guessing the pressure and flow rate are right (I've got a stock 948). That's something I can afford next pay.

The headers are something I want to fit and was going to wait on the exhaust system until after getting the headers. Thing is, there's no point fitting a new exhaust, then needing to scrap it when I get the headers (2" diameter?). Best to buy it all at the same time. While exhaust patches will cost over time, they are literally all I can afford NOW, and allow me to do the full upgrade later.


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Scouse
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crackers wrote:
Meantime, my fuel pump is dying (loud clattering) and they aren't cheap either.
An original SU pump? if so, they clatter loudly when they're trying to suck up air which is why they're noisy when turning on the ignition after sitting overnight.
Air can get in through vaporisation (not really a problem at the moment) or a cracked pipe (usually in the tank if there's no obvious leak).

The modern fuel pumps (like the Facet) are push types so thy need to be fitted down near the tank. They'll work for a while up in the original spot but they won't like it for long.


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crackers
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not the original SU pump - smaller though still a cylinder. Obviously points type as it ticks away but unlike the SU, doesn't stop ticking once the pressure is built up (which might also indicate a leak). The loud clatter can happen at any time at any speed and only lasts for a time, either a long time (20 mins) or just a few minutes.

As I understand your above comment, if I buy that cheap pump linked to, I need to move it next to the tank... which means running wires as well.


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DON58VAN
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the body of the pump black plastic? If so, it might be the one designed and made in NZ. They cost about $90.


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crackers
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Posts: 123
Location: Southern Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DON58VAN wrote:
Is the body of the pump black plastic? If so, it might be the one designed and made in NZ. They cost about $90.


That's the beastie. Are they repairable? ie, diaphragm and points kit?



It's mounted next to the battery.

The poms are trying to tell me I shouldn't have the fuel filter, that they only cause troubles. Any thoughts?


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MorryStu
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Joined: 02 Jan 2005
Posts: 260
Location: Grafton, NSW North Coast

PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crackers wrote:
That fuel pump is interesting. Does it go in the same place on the firewall? If you're running one, I'm guessing the pressure and flow rate are right (I've got a stock 948). That's something I can afford next pay.

You can put it anywhere in the engine bay or even up te back if you want. They are universal. Just make sure you get the low pressure one under 6psi otherwise it will have to much pressure for the float bowl and flood your carby

The headers are something I want to fit and was going to wait on the exhaust system until after getting the headers. Thing is, there's no point fitting a new exhaust, then needing to scrap it when I get the headers (2" diameter?). Best to buy it all at the same time. While exhaust patches will cost over time, they are literally all I can afford NOW, and allow me to do the full upgrade later.


The Maniflow headers bolt straight up to an original fitted exhaust just as it goes under the floor. One advantage is to fit a 2" exhaust to your existing set up, then its just a matter of cutting it back where it needs to join the new headers.

Trust me when I say that it is the way to go.

You wont look back at those headers, they fit perfectly and clear everthing.

They are the ducks bollox Very Happy


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