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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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John Ballard valued contributor
Joined: 11 Feb 2004 Posts: 2646 Location: Dubbo NSW
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Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Loks good and fairly rust free, good luck and get started
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frosty moderator
Joined: 23 Dec 2003 Posts: 3833 Location: 4559 near a big pineapple, Qld
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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John Ballard wrote: | Loks good and fairly rust free, good luck and get started |
Thanks John, I'm just sorting the 3x 950 motors I have to see if they are any good at the moment.
Cheers
Pete
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John Ballard valued contributor
Joined: 11 Feb 2004 Posts: 2646 Location: Dubbo NSW
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Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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Just reading your post again, Series 11 had 803cc engine but to restore better and a lot cheaper to rebuild a 950 Minor 1000 engine.
1953 first of the OHV engines but should have a "cheesegrater" grill.
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Hi John,
You are correct it does have a cheese grater grill, but I would have though there would be a way to tell exactly what year it is and not a year range. Sorry used to working on Holdens and Fords.
Cheers Pete
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Scouse moderator
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Posts: 5266 Location: Wollondilly, NSW
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Posted: Sun May 03, 2020 8:01 am Post subject: |
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Hi Pete, welcome to the forum.
You have a late 1953 Series II, November/December build from the UK so it would have arrived out here in 1954 if it was an export car from new.
Being a UK build makes your car different from 95% of Morris Minors in Australia. Most were locally assembled from kits sent out from the UK but yours came out as a complete car.
As it is a UK build, the musuem at Gaydon will have access to the original build details if you wanted to restore the car to it's original appearance. Paint, trim, engine/gearbox numbers are all on record. They will also show where the car went from new - either a local UK dealer or for export.
As John says, the 950 engine is a better option over the little original. So much so that there's very few Series IIs running the original engine.
Your car would have had the wier motor tucked up under the dash originally but someone has wisely decided to convert it to the later engine bay set up - much easier access if needed now.
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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Posted: Sun May 03, 2020 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Scott,
How do you figure this from the ID plate? Is there a chart showing this. I had a look on line and the most detailed chart I could find was this https://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/Identify.htm
I'll look into the Gaydon museum and see what I find
Cheers
Pete
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Everyone,
it's been a fair while since I posted, priorities haven't been on Lil Jen lately (for months but thought to add an update.
Bought a 4K & 5 spd corolla engine, was told it was a good going engine. Big risk. But put engine on a car tire and some wood chocks, wired it up and it started and ran great, no smoke. Phew relief. This wasn't my first pick of engines, as before I mentioned this morry came with 3x engines & 3 g'boxes. So I sold them and bought a subaru forester with a EJ 20 & 5 spd. They are a great engine and I like the power out of the suby and although I could find limited info on the internet of anyone doing this I thought to give it a go I did read some where it couldn't be done but what the hell, the whole car cost $400 and drove it home in a 3hr trip. We'll surprise surprise it fit the engine bay except the bloody steering rack and chassis runners, I was thinking of making a steam pipe exhaust manifold which would raise the engine about 70 - 80mm . I tried kicking the engine/G'box to about 4 deg but to no avail, hence the 4k corolla. Lesson learned! Now I have been cutting rust out of the damn thing, has been taking about nearly a year to do this but an happy with the front which is where I'm up to. There was a fair bit in the front A pillar down the bottom where it meats the sill, some mud and crap there so no wonder it rotted out.
Cheers Pete
https://i.imgur.com/v45Jem6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gYfjiZH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dPieWHp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/APYfY3l.jpg
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John Ballard valued contributor
Joined: 11 Feb 2004 Posts: 2646 Location: Dubbo NSW
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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 9:59 am Post subject: |
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Lower part od A and B pillars can be bought. Best quality and fit Andrew Eggleton UK fast post.
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DON58VAN Full Licence
Joined: 25 Sep 2008 Posts: 863 Location: Sydney/Bowral
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ocsum Got the keys
Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Posts: 38 Location: Toowoomba,QLD
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Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2022 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Don , I'll have a look at the manual at that mod, just worries if the seam is bent then this could encourage rust.
Cheers
Pete
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DON58VAN Full Licence
Joined: 25 Sep 2008 Posts: 863 Location: Sydney/Bowral
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Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Pete
Yes, bending over the seam creates an area where mud can collect. However, it isn't bent over so it is flush against the inner guard, creating an inaccessible gap. It is more of a curl, so that there is no sharp edge facing the tyre. So there is a gap that is wide enough so that it can be checked and easily cleaned.
As long as you check when the car is washed that there is no dirt/mud accumulating under the 'curl', there won't be a problem.
I am looking forward to seeing more of how your project is progressing.
Don
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